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to one who is alone. The more I pondered the less I liked it; and yet,
the less could I make up my mind to return when I looked at the saddle at
the head of the valley, and noted the comparative ease with which its
smooth sweep of snow might be surmounted: I seemed to see my way almost
from my present position to the very top. After much thought, I resolved
to go forward until I should come to some place which was really
dangerous, but then to return. I should thus, I hoped, at any rate reach
the top of the saddle, and satisfy myself as to what might be on the
other side.

I had no time to lose, for it was now between ten and eleven in the
morning. Fortunately I was well equipped, for on leaving the camp and
the horses at the lower end of the valley I had provided myself
(according to my custom) with everything that I was likely to want for
four or five days. Chowbok had carried half, but had dropped his whole
swag--I suppose, at the moment of his taking flight--for I came upon it
when I ran after him. I had, therefore, his provisions as well as my
own. Accordingly, I took as many biscuits as I thought I could carry,
and also some tobacco, tea, and a few matches. I rolled all these things
(together with a flask nearly full of brandy, which I had kept in my
pocket for fear lest Chowbok should get hold of it) inside my blankets,
and strapped them very tightly, making the whole into a long roll of some
seven feet in length and six inches in diameter. Then I tied the two
ends together, and put the whole round my neck and over one shoulder.
This is the easiest way of carrying a heavy swag, for one can rest one's
self by shifting the burden from one shoulder to the other. I strapped
my pannikin and a small axe about my waist, and thus equipped began to
ascend the valley, angry at having been misled by Chowbok, but determined
not to return till I was compelled to do so.

I crossed and recrossed the stream several times without difficulty, for
there were many good fords. At one o'clock I was at the foot of the
saddle; for four hours I mounted, the last two on the snow, where the
going was easier; by five, I was within ten minutes of the top, in a
state of excitement greater, I think, than I had ever known before. Ten
minutes more, and the cold air from the other side came rushing upon me.

A glance. I was _not_ on the main range.

Another glance. There was an awful river, muddy and horribly angry,
roaring over an immense river-bed, thousands of feet below me.

It went round to the westward, and I could see no farther up the valley,
save that there were enormous glaciers which must extend round the source
of the river, and from which it must spring.

Another glance, and then I remained motionless.

There was an easy pass in the mountains directly opposite to me, through
which I caught a glimpse of an immeasurable extent of blue and distant
plains.

Easy? Yes, perfectly easy; grassed nearly to the summit, which was, as

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